Questions to ask yourself to better guide you on YOUR water usage are:

• Do you plan to travel alone, or with someone? With two people, consumption usually doubles 😉
• Planning to install a shower in your Van? If yes, how often do you plan to use it? Remember to be realistic !
• Planning to install a chemical toilet with flushing water? Be aware that it will consume a minimum of 1-2 liters of water with each rinse.
• Can you reduce your regular water usage? Normally when you travel by RV/van, you have to give up the idea of using water as if you were at home.

Answering these questions will help you identify a reasonable estimate of the daily water needs of your converted van, and figure out how to structure the system accordingly: what tanks to choose, what pump, what hoses, what fittings etc.

From the next chapter, we begin to look in detail at the various components of an RV’s water system.

In this chapterI’ll show you the various types of tanks on the market, I’ll recommend specialized sites where to find them and I’ll give you practical advice from my experience not to make a mistake in your choice.

3.1 CHOOSING THE FRESHWATER TANK

The freshwater tank is your “water bank”. All the water for your faucet, shower, or bath starts here.

Selecting one of the right capacity is therefore essential to making the most of your campervan adventures and supporting your travel style (or lifestyle 😉 ).

A large tank, allows you to carry more water and be independent for longer; however, an excessively large tank can be an unnecessary burden to carry around that unnecessarily increases your consumption and costs.

The good news is that fresh water tanks come in all shapes and sizes, so once you know approximately how much water you need, it shouldn’t be difficult to find a tank that suits your needs.

Below I show you three types of tanks, different in shape. Next, I’ll leave you with all the tips for choosing the one that’s right for you.

Personalmente, avendo predisposto più utenze (un lavandino, una doccia interna ed una esterna), ho deciso di installare nel mio van una pompa Shurflo Trailking 7, nonostante ci fosse anche un modello più grande (la Shurflo Trailking 10)

Da una parte, mi piace la comodità dell’acqua che esce da sola appena apri il rubinetto (ti fa sentire come a casa), mentre all’altra, installare una pompa di portata “media” mi aiuta a non esagerare con il consumo d’acqua (infatti, so che più di 7 litri al minuto non posso consumare, qualunque cosa io stia facendo).

4.2. THE EXPANSION TANK: WHAT IT IS AND UNDERSTAND IF YOU REALLY NEED IT

Water pumps do not pump steadily, but push water through pipes “in hiccups.”

That’s why, if you connect a faucet directly with a water pump, when you turn on the water you’ll notice that the water with a constant jet as when you’re at home, but will come out in intermittent sprays more or less powerful. This happens because the pump works more or less like a piston, and pushes water through the pipes in “hiccups”.

If, as I wanted to do, you want to eliminate the annoying intermittence of the water jet (which in the long run can also cause damage to the system) and have a continuous stream from all your utilities, what you need is an expansion tank.

An expansion tank (also called “accumulator”) is nothing more than a hydraulic component that stores water under pressure, and releases it at a constant flow, eliminating in fact the sudden pressure variations caused by the pump.

The expansion tank is installed between the pump and the water utilities (see photo below).

Schematic Diagram of the Water System of DIY CamperVan – STEP 2: The Expansion Vessel (in Yellow)

4.3 INSERTING A FILTER BETWEEN THE FRESHWATER TANK AND THE PUMP: WHY IT IS A GOOD IDEA

If the pump is the “heart” of your water system, installing a filter to protect it is the best way to take care of your entire system.

Although theoretically only clean water reaches the pump, “clean” water can often contain traces of debris and dirt particles that in the long run could ruin the pump and compromise its efficiency and longevity.

That’s why installing a filter is an extra measure that helps you protect your pump and your water system from all the surprises the future may throw at it.

Personally, I installed a Shurflo Screw Filter created specifically for the type of pump I chose (Shurflo Trailking 7) and I empty it regularly every couple of months.

Below, you can see the location of the filter in an RV’s water system.

RV Water System Diagram – STEP 3: Insert a Filter before the Pump.

5. Install the water system in your motorhome van:

What Pipes to Use for Water?

Choosing the right hoses for your van and being consistent with their use is the basis for speeding up the installation of your water system and not getting crazy.

If you choose a particular section, use it throughout your installation: that way all the gaskets and fittings (which we’ll talk about in the next chapter) will be the same size and it will be much easier to assemble everything.

Since there are pipes of all materials, types and sections and listing them all, besides being very laborious, would be a great waste of time, I decided to leave you only the pipes that I used in my water system (chosen after several research sessions!)

5.1 ALL PIPES YOU NEED TO USE IN YOUR CAMPER VAN

Below you will find the three types of pipes I used for my camper with their characteristics.

Note: For almost all of the pipes, fittings and various pieces that I used for my water system, I ordered them from the site CampingLife (a very serious site with, huge catalog, extremely competitive prices, and fast delivery). If you’re from US or UK, you won’t have problems finding such pipes in your country, as their use is very widespread.

Personally, I don’t think rigid pipes are even worth considering for a conversion project.

The 12mm polyethylene pipes, besides being flexible and economical, also have the advantage of working perfectly with the quick couplings (which as we will see below, are all you should use for quick, easy, and drip-proof work!).

The diameter of 12mm is the standard of most of the quick couplings on the market and I suggest you to choose it for all the pipes you are going to install in your van, except for the loading pipe (connected to your fresh water tank) and the discharge pipes (from the utilities to the grey water tank) where can benefit you by having a larger cross section (40mm diameter).

Installare l’impianto idrico di un camper è sicuramente più intuitivo di installare l’impianto elettrico, però sicuramente per andare a colpo sicuro ed evitare perdite, è bene tenere a mente la teoria.

In questo capitolo, vediamo insieme tutti ciò che ti serve sapere per collegare senza errori il sistema “acqua” del tuo camper.

6.1 TUTTI I TIPI DI RACCORDI CHE TI POTRANNO SERVIRE

Per unire le varie parti del tuo impianto idrico (serbatoi, boiler, rubinetti, pompa etc.) tramite i tubi, si utilizzano vari tipi di raccordi. Scegliere il raccordo giusto, dipende principalmente dal tipo di “aggancio” (foro, protuberanza, filettatura) dei componenti che stai tentando di installare.

Di seguito, ti mostro tutti i tipi di raccordi/collegamenti che ti possono servire:

6.2 USEFUL VALVES FOR THE WATER SYSTEM OF YOUR CAMPER VAN

In addition to fittings, there is another type of important items you should consider installing in your water system (depending, of course, on how elaborate you plan to create it): valves.

Below, I want to show you two types of valves that I believe you can use to create a functional and safe water system.

Faucet Valve

The“tap” valve (readily available with or without quick fittings) is simply a valve that can be closed or opened as needed by turning a handle.

Installing this type of valve is useful for blocking the flow of water to certain parts of the water system, while perhaps even leaving others on.

Personally, (as I will also show you in the detailed scheme in paragraph 6.3 ) if you are thinking of installing a system with fixed tanks (not manually removable tanks)I advise you to install a minimum of four tap valves: :

• one between the clear water tank and the pump (to block the flow of water to the pump)
• two at the tank discharge connection (both fresh water and grey water)
• one after the expansion tank (to block the water flow from the pump onwards)

This way, you’ll be able to empty the tanks when needed and you can always stop the flow of water when you’ll ever need to work on your pump, expansion tank, pipes, or the system more generally in the future.

Having the ability to shut off your system with these simple valves can help you fix any leaks without risking flooding half of your van.

Non-Return Valve

Non-return valves (also called “one-way valves”), are valves through which water can only flow in one direction.

A no-return valve (as you will see in the detailed diagram in section 6.3) is especially recommended:

• in case you want to install a hot water boiler, the valve is installed before the boiler so that the opening of the taps does not “suck” the water from the wrong side of the boiler and does not let it come out of the cold water taps

Exhaust Valve

The drain valve is another useful valve in case you decide to install a hot water boiler, and it is installed in the following way (diagram at 6.3):

• is installed between the non-return valve and the boiler, by pulling the upper lever the valve opens and allows to discharge the water in the boiler (useful in winter). In addition, in the event of excessive pressure in the hot water boiler, the valve automatically opens and discharges the excess water directly underneath the vehicle.

Now that we have seen both the fittings and the valves that you will need to properly connect all parts of your water system, let’s see the diagram of the entire system and the various precautions to be taken in installing everything.

6.3 DETAILED SCHEME FOR INSTALLING THE WATER SYSTEM IN A DIY VAN CONVERSION

In this section, I summarize all of the previous chapters and combine them to create a detailed and comprehensive diagram of an RV’s water system.

Depending on your project, you may need all or part of the scheme. As I show you the various connections, I’ll also tell you which components are optional and which are essential.

STEP 1. Properly connect the Freshwater tank

 Se hai deciso di installare nel tuo furgone camperizzato un serbatoio delle acque chiare fisso, questi sono i collegamenti essenziali da fare:

1) Il serbatoio delle acque chiare deve avere un foro attraverso cui caricare l’acqua fresca. Questo foro normalmente deve essere connesso ad un tubo con un’entrata più alta (h) rispetto all’altezza massima del serbatoio. L’estremità del tubo può esser connessa ad una porta esterna per il rabbocco d’acqua o comunque ad un punto accessibile dove si può versare l’acqua. Consiglio un diametro di 40mm.

2) Un foro nella parte inferiore del serbatoio deve essere collegato alla pompa d’acqua (diametro consigliato 12mm)

3) Un foro nella parte più in basso possibile del serbatoio, può esser collegato direttamente ad un rubinetto esterno al camper (utile nel caso tu voglia svuotare completamente il serbatoio – consigliato diametro 12mm)

4) Il serbatoio delle acque chiare ha bisogno di uno sfiato (nella parte superiore) attraverso cui l’aria possa entrare quando l’acqua viene utilizzata, e attraverso cui l’aria possa uscire durante il carico d’acqua. Senza uno sfiato, i tuoi serbatoi rischierebbero di rotture dovute ai cambi di pressione. Alcune porte esterne per il rabbocco d’acqua includono un’uscita a cui collegare lo sfiato (se colleghi un tubo, qualunque diametro va bene per uno sfiato)

5) Foro d’ispezione: il foro d’ispezione è essenziale per fare manutenzione al tuo serbatoio (risciacquo, pulizia, aggiunta prodotti igienizzanti, anti-batteri etc.) e per questo è bene pensare, in fase di progettazione, di installare il serbatoio in maniera che il foro rimanga facilmente accessibile.

Nota: se il tuo progetto non prevede un serbatoio fisso ma taniche mobili (da riempire manualmente), l’unica cosa di cui avrai bisogno è un tubo che peschi l’acqua e lo porti direttamente alla tua pompa.

STEP 2. Collegare Filtro, Pompa ed Accumulatore

Once the clear water tank is connected, it will be important to connect in the right order:

1) Faucet fitting (useful to close the tank in case you want to work on any of the parts that come after)

2) Filter (installed before the pump, removes impurities and bits of dirt and in doing so, protects your pump)

3) Water pump: the heart of your water system

4) Accumulator (gives the water a continuous pressure and eliminates the hiccup created by the pump)

5) Faucet fitting (another one!) (useful for shutting off the water flow from the pump if you have to work on some faucets)

NOTE: If you chose to install a foot pump or an immersion pump, your project is probably small to medium sized and you should have no problem operating it without a filter or expansion tank (water pressure from the tap is created through the foot, and manually filling the canister allows you to clean it often and thus obviate the need for a filter).

NOTE 2: if you want to know how to correctly connect the electrical wires of your hydraulic pump, I suggest you to see the Complete Electrical Schematic of a Van Electric System.

STEP 3. Complete diagram of the water system of a motorhome: Connecting Boilers, Utilities and Waste Tanks

The most important part of your campervan’s water system is done. Now it’s time to connect the utilities and waste tanks. Let’s see how step by step:

1) Boiler: if you want hot water in your van in all seasons you’ll need to install a boiler (which as we’ll cover in detail in Chapter 8, will probably need to be diesel or gas powered). From the point of view of the pipes, installing it is very simple: a cold water pipe goes in, and a hot water pipe comes out. Before the boiler, however, as I explained before, I recommend that you install a non-return valve and a drain valve (see diagram).

2) Utilities: depending on the faucets you choose, you may only need pipe clamps, quick fittings, or you may need custom fittings to connect the pipes. In any case, connecting a hose to a faucet is nothing complicated and all the parts you may need are usually available at your nearest plumbing supply store.

3) Wastewater Tanks (Gray Water and Black Water): From the sink and shower drain, water should flow to the gray water tank. That’s why it’s important that the tank is located lower (in the case of the shower, under the van is the ideal place). In the case of a chemical toilet, the water from the toilet shall flow into the black water tank. Both tanks require a vent and a drain valve to be opened as needed.

NOTE: By having one pump for several utilities, the various faucets “compete” for the same water. Therefore, opening more than one at the same time will result in a drop of water pressure to both. The same thing happens with hot water.

NOTE 2: This is a complete scheme, obviously you can choose which parts are important for your system and which parts are not needed for your project. The essential parts of a system are clear water tank, pump, faucet, and gray water tank. Everything else (boiler, valves, filter, expansion tank, bath, shower, black water, etc.) is optional and to implement it or not, depends on the idea of the camper project you have in mind.

Knowing the water level in your tanks is essential when planning your trips.

By knowing the level of clearnwater, you can plan your next stop to fill the tank of your camper van. The same thing, applies to emptying your RV’s gray water tank or black water tank.

Many vanlifers keep an eye on their tank levels by simply observing the water level in their tanks “by eye”. This of course, is feasible when the tanks are white and easily accessible.

In larger and more modern RVs, and equally, in many converted vans, water tanks are often hidden in cramped and hardly accessible places.

When you can’t observe the water level by eye, the most common (and not too expensive either) solution is to install water probes.

7.1 WHAT ARE WATER PROBES AND HOW DO THEY WORK?

A probe is nothing more than an instrument that “reads” the level of water in your tanks. There are many different types and models, but essentially they all fall into two types:

In my camper van, having installed my tanks in inaccessible places, I decided to install electric probes on both the fresh water and grey water tanks.

On CampingLife.it I found this Probe kits for Tanks Which includes a probe for each tank and a small screen/reader. Below, I show you how I installed/connected my probe, and explain how it works.

7.2 HOW I INSTALLED THE WATER PROBES ON MY CAMPER VAN

These are the components contained in the Kit that I purchased:

Below, I’ll leave you with a diagram of how I installed/connected my probes and some tips for doing it right.

Scheme for Connecting Water Probes to the Tanks of an Converted Van

Useful tips for assembly:

1. Clear Water Probe: depending on the tank you decided to install, the metal poles may be too long for your needs (in my case, with a 28cm high tank, they were). Fortunately, to adapt them to your needs, you can simply cut the sticks to the appropriate size using a hand saw or a simple jigsaw. Two sticks should be a few inches from the bottom of the tank, one about halfway up the tank, and one a few inches from the top

2. Gray Water Probe: the mechanism to install the two screws to the wall of the tank will automatically waterproof the holes you are going to create. If, like me, you’ve decided to install the gray water tank under your RV, note that you’ll need a hole in the floor of your van to run the probe connection cable through. In addition, I recommend that you cover the entire outside of the screws and the electrical connection with insulating glue (e.g. Sikaflex 521) so that they will not be affected by external agents in the long run.

3. Control Screen –Install the screen in an easy-to-access location. Consider the length of the supplied cables to best plan your connections.

Se hai in testa un progetto di camperizzazione in grande, probabilmente starai accarezzando l’idea di installare non solo un impianto idrico con acqua fredda, ma di installare pure un sistema per l’acqua calda.

Per avere a disposizione dell’acqua calda in camper, quello che ti serve è un boiler (riscaldatore d’acqua).

In commercio ce ne sono di vari tipi, ma normalmente si dividono in boiler a gas, boiler a diesel, boiler elettrici e riscaldamenti ibridi aria/acqua.

Di seguito, ti mostro degli ottimi modelli di boiler in commercio con i vari pro e contro.

8.1 SCEGLIERE UN BOILER PER IL TUO VAN CAMPERIZZATO

Depending on the type and model of water heater you choose, you’ll need to make different connections (connect the gas line, connect the diesel pump to the tank, or the electrical wires to the batteries).

As for the water path though (the one we’re talking about in this article) the assembly in all cases is relatively simple: a cold water pipe goes in, and a hot water pipe comes out.

8.2 LOW-COST ALTERNATIVE TO HEAT WATER IN YOUR VAN

Faucets are the icing on the cake of your plumbing system, the easiest part to install and the only part you are likely to see once the project is complete .

There are faucets on the market of all types, all shapes, all sizes and for all needs. Despite the fact that the aesthetics may change entirely from one model to another, all types of faucets work the same way, and they are divided into:

Personally, I can tell you that when choosing faucets, the best thing to do is to following your taste and the van design you have in mind (there are really all kinds!).

The only advice I can give you in buying them is to pay attention to check out the size of their fittings (if you get a tap with the right fittings now, you will not have to juggle to find adapters, reducers, etc.. Nevertheless, if you have already purchased a model with different fittings, fear not: a solution with fittings can always be found 🙂

In my camper van, having installed a water heater, I decided to install all two-way faucets.

These are the models I installed: outdoor shower faucet, sink faucet, indoor shower faucet. If you are interested in learning more about the specific installation of these models, I recommend reading the article How to Build a Shower on Your Camper Van.).

Below you will find all the products and tools that you will presumably need to create and install the water system on your Do-It-Yourself Camper (all products that I used for my camper van).

For your convenience, clicking the image of any product will directly open the Amazon page should you also be interested in buying it or just interested in understanding the qualities of the products you need.

For the sake of transparency note: I participate in the Amazon Associate program and for any purchase made through the links on this site, I receive a small commission that I use to support the costs of this blog, obviously at no extra cost to you 🙂 ) All products that I recommend are the ones I personally used too 🙂

Now that we have seen all the components of the water system of a motorhome and the various diagrams to connect them together, before ending I want to leave you some practical advice that I learned from my experience installing my water system totally by myself:

1) Wherever possible, use quick couplers: quick couplers are really quick to install, are drop-proof and relatively inexpensive. During my van conversion journey, I had several problems installing faucets with traditional fittings (and they require a lot more time and work: Teflon, bitch, gaskets, etc.), while the quick couplers never missed a drop.

2) Never forget the Teflon in traditional fittings: when there’s anything water-related to screw in, remember to use Teflon and pull hard and all the way in with a pile plier. Even the slightest invisible crack is enough for water to seep in and start dripping.

3) Use gaskets and never use waterproofing glues/sprays: your pipes, if you have installed a pump, contain water at a higher pressure than atmospheric pressure. No glue, no matter how strong, can waterproof a poorly screwed crack or joint if it is under pressure. Make sure you use the right gaskets and pull them firmly all the way through.

4) When you are unsure, ask for advice before improvising: before this project, I had never tried my hand at creating a water system. Fortunately, everything can be learned. When there’s a problem with the hoses, or when you’re unsure of what fitting you might need to connect two components together, the wise thing to do is to ask those who know more about it: a plumbing/hydro store, a plumber, this blog… 😉 Some leaks on the first try will probably always be there (it’s normal!), however, the important thing is to have the theory in your head from the beginning.

This was my complete guide to the water system in a camper/converted van. I really hope this helps you.

If you are interested in specific parts of the water system (e.g., shower, toilet, boiler, etc.), you will find in-depth articles in the general summary of the Guide to Heating a Van.

In addition to the insights, there you will find other Maxi-Guides including the one for the ‘electrical system, the one for theapproval and much more.

For now we say goodbye, if you have any further questions or comments don’t hesitate to write me in the comments below.

Even if you find inaccuracies let me know, so I can improve this guide for those who will read it in the future.

See you in the next article! 🙂